While most of my writings so far have centered around wildlife, I wanted to post about one of my other passions: guinea pigs. I was first introduced to the world of pigs as a young girl, and we did almost everything wrong from keeping them in tiny cages, feeding them the wrong diet, etc. In college, I went with my old knowledge and continued those mistakes, but in graduate school, I found a guinea pig rescue that helped me to provide for my pigs the right way. I have been continuing to learn along the way.

Pigs are lovely critters- so full of personality and big emotions. No two pigs are alike. Given their size and longevity (5-7 yrs on average), guinea pigs are often marketed as “starter pets,” a term that makes many folks cringe. In fact, guinea pigs need a lot of specialized care, and information on proper care isn’t readily available despite their popularity as pets. Today’s post will focus on essential first aid items to have on hand for pigs.

1. A kitchen scale. Guinea pigs are prey animals, and they are masters at hiding symptoms of illness. One of the first signs that something may be wrong is weight loss, but weight loss for a pig can amount to 30-40g change which is hard to detect. Therefore, it is best to have a pig-sized scale and weigh your pigs weekly. A sudden change in weight can indicate something is wrong. Pigs don’t like to lose weight!
2. Nail clippers. Typically, you have to clip pig nails once a month. This event is usually chock full of drama. I suggest having corn starch and/or styptic powder on hand in case you trim too much. Rewarding pigs with some treats after the trauma also helps. Here is a great guide on nail clipping.
3. Vitamin C supplement. Guinea pigs are like humans and can’t manufacture their own vitamin C. While some food has C in it, it is best to supplement their diet especially as they age. Oxbow Vitamin C cookies work well, but after their formula change several years ago, I switched to halving 100mg chewable vitamin C tablets. I currently use Nature’s Plus Orange Juice Junior.
   • Note: steer clear of C supplements for water as they degrade with sunlight and often alter the flavor of water to make pigs avoid drinking it.
4. Benebac. This stuff is gold! Guinea pigs have sensitive digestive tracts and probiotics like Benebec gel can help set them back on course after something disrupts their system. Benebac should be given with ANY antibiotics to pigs. I also supplement sometimes when I see a pig has soft poo/digestive issues. (Note: soft poo can sometimes indicate something is wrong and needs a vet visit.) Most vets will prescribe Benebac with antibiotic courses, but it’s good to have a tube or two on hand, just in case.
   • Second note: you might notice that your pig is sensitive to certain foods. For example, I had a pig who consistently got soft poo/gas build up after eating fruit. So, we had to eliminate fruit from his diet. Pay attention to certain triggers.
5. Simethicone. Guinea pig digestion is aided by bacteria which make a lot of gas. Unfortunately, pigs can’t pass gas really easily and a build up can cause a fatal condition known as bloat. Bloat can sometimes come out of nowhere and needs to be dealt with immediately if your pig is to make it. Too many times, I have had these issues happen at 11pm on Sunday nights… so having simethicone (baby gas meds) on hand can sometimes get you through for a couple hours until you can rush your pig to the vet. As you become a more experienced pig owner, you might also notice times when pigs get gassy (but not bloated) and just need a little relief. I use Little Remedies gas drops for babies and administer 0.1-0.2mL.
   • Make sure to purchase simethicone with NO pain medication added (NO Acetaminophen and NO Ibuprofen).
   • Also- remember that bloat is fatal and simethicone will help alleviate some of the gas but will not treat the underlying issue. Your pig should go to the vet immediately if it has bloat, is lethargic, and/or is refusing to eat.
6. Critical Care or Sherwood Recovery Food. Pigs need to continually eat, or their digestive tract will shut down. This is one of the reasons why monitoring your pet’s weight is so important. Critical Care is finely ground food that you mix with water and feed via a syringe. This helps hydrate your pig and keep food moving through their system. Much like the simethicone, this is an emergency measure to get your pig through for a few hours before taking them to the vet. Sometimes, vets will also prescribe Critical Care with antibiotics or after surgical procedures to ensure your pig is getting the food it needs. Often, you have to feed them every couple of hours. You can read more about hand feeding here.
   • Pro-tip: you can store Critical Care in the freezer to prolong it past the expiration date.
7. Saline drops. With those bulgy eyes and a tendency to tunnel into hay, guinea pigs are prone to hay pokes in the eye- particularly if you have dry, stiff hay/orchard grass. Sometimes, you can flush things quickly with saline, but often, this requires a trip to the vet (do you see a pattern?). The eyes will become cloudy following a hay poke and will need to be tested to see if the cornea has been scratched, etc. Saline drops (without additional additives) will help rinse the eye and provide some relief before you can get them in.

For a quick reference, Guinea Lynx is a great site to read up on common guinea pig illnesses and emergencies. As a pig owner, it is important to establish a relationship with a cavy-savvy exotic vet and have a backup or two. I have been faced with many emergency vet visits that often require the pigs getting in within several hours of the onset of symptoms to ensure their survival. Most of the items I described above will help tide you over for a couple of hours until you can get to the vet.